Against the Odds

It struck me today how complicated it is to get stories from other communities in the Territory. This week two of our Slavey broadcasters went to Fort Good Hope to do live broadcasts. First of all, the phone company didn't install the necessay lines. They were also missing a cable to make it all work, so it had to be sent up by plane. They couldn't do a live show on the first day. On the second day, when the phone lines still weren't installed, they set up shop at their mother's house (these two broadcasters are sisters).

This morning, we got word that a producer based in Fort Smith, who had been in Fort Chipewyan (in Alberta) to do a story, had missed her charter plane Tuesday night. It left at 10 but she didn't have all the elements of her story so she stayed behind and got a boat ride to Moose Island, wherever that is, the next morning. (What's the water version of hitch-hiking???) Love the name of the guy running the boat--Joe Voyageur.

And last week Snookie Catholique, who was also in Chip for another story (about residential schools), took a boat back to Fort Smith, too, with three others. Snookie had all her camera gear with her, and it was pouring rain. The boat broke down (sound familiar?) and eventually another vessel came along with a satellite phone, so they could call search and rescue. They were in a bend in the river and the rescue boat went by without seeing them. They floated further down the river with the current, and finally they were spotted. But they were only taken to an unpaved road on land, where they were told to wait for rescue by truck. However, heavy rains prevented a vehicle from getting them, so they trudged through the muck and rain to find an empty cabin. Snookie had a couple of salmon with her, but that's about all the four of them had to eat. In addition to the boat guy, there was an older woman with diabetes and an ex-con. Sounds like the makings of a reality TV show -- or sitcom.

You can get there from here in the north; it's just not always a direct route.

Inside the NWT Spaceship

From outside, at a distance, the territorial legislature building does look like an alien spaceship that has landed on the rocks at the far end of Frame Lake. (See Bronwyn's earlier reference and photo.) Inside, though, it's a spectacular building where functionality and aesthetics share the stage. The acoustics are amazing in this round building, that reflects the cultural traditions of the northern people and their consensus government. There are no parties here--candidates run independently in the 19 ridings. And, although Yellowknife, has about half of the population, it only has five seats so that the 32 other communities won't be dominated by this one city.

Here, our tour guide on Sunday afternoon shows off the main chamber, with its zinc wall at the back and polar bear rug just behind her. The building is filled with beautiful sculptures and paintings, including several A.Y. Jackson's of the north that were found in someone's basement. When the Legislative Building first opened in 1993, all provinces and the Yukon gave gifts. This hand-hooked hanging of the NWT coat of arms came from Nova Scotia and hangs in the caucus room upstairs, where the in camera meetings are held. It was the first gift the territory received.

The new mace is a work of art too. A 1.3 carat northern diamond sits at the top and within the shaft there are 33 tiny pebbles collected from the communities, which create a sound similar to a rainstick. I'm thinking of attending the opening of the next session of the Legislature on Wednesday just to hear what it sounds like. It will be the last session before the election coming up on October 1st.

It wasn't until the fall, right after I left in 1979, that the NWT members selected their own premier. Up until then, a federally appointed commissioner was the top guy. And the meetings were held in a room in the YK Inn on the main street, which has now been built up as a mall.

At the End of the Rainbow

For our last adventure yesterday, Bronwyn and I walked the Range Lake trail after dinner. True to form for the week, it started out sunny and then rained on us halfway through the trek. As we made our way through the subdivision, a full spectrum rainbow developed across the sky (I couldn't capture it all), with a partial double rainbow.

It was a fitting ending to Bronwyn's visit this week: at the end of a bad bout of weather, a symbol of hope and beauty. While it was by and large rainy and cold for her stay, each day had its own rainbow.

And so the daughter has returned to 30 plus temps in Toronto and, no doubt, will miss the cool Yk nights when she had to snuggle under the covers to keep warm.

Adrift on Great Slave Lake

See that rope at the back of the Coast Guard Boat? Well, it's attached to the Mary Ellen, who lost power on the way back from Horseshoe Bay in Great Slave Lake. Julie and Jan decided to take a chance on the weather to give Bronwyn and me a ride on their cabin cruiser, a 35-year-old Swedish vessel that runs on diesel. She's a sweet little cruiser that sleeps four and runs at about 14 km/hr.

We went in and out of cloud and rain showers, but the wind wasn't too strong and we made it easily to Horseshoe, where we anchored and enjoyed lunch. That's Tiffany, Jan and Julie's, daughter, who read her Harry Potter book for most of the trip.

Jan and Julie have owned the boat for five years, and put in a new engine just four years ago. But as Julie was at the helm on the way back, Mary Ellen lost power. It was just at the point when I was asking about the name. That's the original name for the cruiser, which they decided not to change. Jan is convinced the spirit of Mary Ellen has something to do with the breakdown. It definitely wasn't a case of running out of gas because the Coast Guard brought along some diesel, and that didn't get us going. So they tied up at the front-- after a speech about not being responsible for damage to the boat or injury to us, or having to leave us if someone in more distress called-- and towed us into the government wharf in Yellowknife.The distress call was made to Inuvik and the Coast Guard there contacted the auxiliary in Yellowknife, which operates with volunteers. It took them about 50 minutes to come and get us.

As we got closer to Yellowknife, they tied a rope to the side and pulled us in that way. As Julie remarked, it was rather pleasant: We had the speed of a power boat and the quiet of a kayak.

I Paid a Thousand Bucks for This?

The slave is rebelling, reclining on the sofa, whipped by the rain, the cold, a gigantic muskibou burger with sweet potato frites and a nightcap at Le Frolic.

Here's a self-portrait, taken on yet another blustery walk on Frame Lake Trail, after a writing session over coffee at Javaroma.

The 10 degree forecast for today was a record-setting temp for Yk at this time of year. Normal is around 20 degrees. Environment Canada meteorologist Dave Phillips said on the morning show that we should see more seasonable temps in five days.

However, some Yellowknifers say this could be the beginning of the end. It feels like November in Nova Scotia.

When we had dinner at Our Place last night, space heaters were plugged in all over the restaurant, while the air conditionning was on full blast. Not exactly a model of energy efficiency.

The Cinematic Parade Continues...

*whip whip* Here's another post.

So since YKSusan did only boring things yesterday (i.e. work) I have to blog..again. This is seriously cutting into my Facebook time. The things you'll do for your parents.

I walked around Frame Lake. The trail is kind of scrubby on one side and then hooks up with the more pedestrian friendly part which runs alongside downtown. Felt very Frodo a la LOTR settling out on my ginormous treck through 'the bush' while braving bears and such. Oh, picture -->

And then some overfit, overspandexed, unnecessary thing ran by me. Like it was just her normal everyday run. And then she'd go bake cookies for her kids, do some volunteer work & start on her Christmas cards.

The weather was tempermental to the extreme - it rained and shone three separate times during the walk. It's all about layers here. And not so much about my new patent leather flats.



While I didn't see or hear any hungry bears I did hear something which I thought was a loon. Until I listened to the movie later. It could have been an angry spirit back from the dead.

More pics of my walk:

The Leg looking like an evil spaceship -->(above)

Oh and we went to the Simpson's movie (hence title).

Note from mom: it's frickin' freezing here!

Working Vacation

OK so I'd say my mom flew me out here to be her blog slave except that I flew myself out here so really, I sprang my own trap. Funny how that works...

Yep so I went to the Prince of Wales museum today. Suprise suprise it has a giant painting of Prince Charles in it and he almost looks hot!! Granted the painting is from 20 years ago. I wish I had a photo of that painting now. It's making me kinda sad....

I saw exhibits on: Old Planes, Traditional Styles of Making Clothing, Artwork, Traditional Styles of Making Boats and...shoot...I dunno. The best part was the soapstone sculptures which never fail to impress me and the acrylics which make full use of the broad spectrum of colours that arise from the long sunsets and reflections off the ice. At least I hope that's what happens, this is the most north I've ever been, it could be pure exaggeration, who knows.

I also liked the video about the making of the moose hide boat.

Note to museum, fix your frickin' interactive exhibits! I don't know WHERE on your hard drive the slideshow is! Believe me, I spent 5 minutes looking but there was a lot of folders! Don't even get me started about the subfolders!!! I still love you though because you feed me in nice ways. But get more bison! That's what I really wanted!

This is far too long.

This is Susan doing what she does - multi-tasking. She can have a chat on the phone and flash you a cheery smile all in one go!