




Back to the North





Here we are enjoying what's been for me one of many wonderful meals at the home of Aggie and Terry. (Behind Aggie are their friends Lois and Pat.) Terry had just returned from a filming project outside Kugluktuk (formerly known as Coppermine) about a cultural camp for elders and youth. He came home with Arctic Char, which we enjoyed on Saturday night.
On Sunday night Brian and I were invited to yet another feast, at the home of Magdy El-Beheiry, who recently moved to the CBC in Yellowknife from Mississauga. He's been here since January, but his wife Debbie and their children Sabrina and Tarik joined him at the beginning of July, after school ended. They cooked up dish after dish, including stuffed grape leaves, taboullah (after searching high and low for fresh parsley) and baklava to die for. Magdy is from Egypt and Debbie moved to Canada from Zimbabwe at age 15.
When I arrived at News of the North in 1978, the editor Craig McInnes, was leaving, along with his partner of the time, Elizabeth Hay who worked at CBC radio. So I never really go to know them. But I read Craig's articles while he was at the Globe and followed Liz's career as a writer. Her upcoming newest work of fiction is creating a buzz up here. It's set in the 70's in Yellowknife--and, well, here's the description on Liz's website:A lot of people will be reading this one, trying to match the characters with people from the past--even though we all know authors never base their characters on real people ... I'm just glad I arrived after she gathered her material.



aways. And it's packed with arts and crafts from the north. The yard, too, is far from conventional, with its own twists and turns and surprises. Exposed boulders share the space with trees, lawn ornnaments, perennials and plants potted in everything from buckets to shoe-shaped planters.
I've been looking for an excuse to post this photo taken on a side street in downtown Yellowknife. It's a powerful and textured mural. Real muskox may not be roaming the city; however, black bears are definitely becoming urban creatures. A bear was spotted on Frame Lake trail on Friday. When wildlife officers arrived, they saw two bears swimming in the lake. The next day a bear was found eating garbage in front of a house near a residential street--not far from my exit to the CBC. That's like seeing a bear on one of the streets near the Halifax Common or around High Park in Toronto. Another bear sighting was reported today near the Explorer Hotel and later at Niven Lake, that other trail with the fancy houses. This one wisely ran off to the ski club when wildlife officers approached. The other one near Frame Lake returned to eat more garbage and, so, it was shot, standard practice around here when a bear shows a lack of fear of people.
The good news is that despite this apparent invasion of black bears, no one has been hurt--or even charged. 


From left to right are Alice MacKenzie, Leitha Kochon, Harriet Paul and Tony Buggins. Alice and Harriet speak Dogrib, Leitha speaks Slavey and Tony's first language is Chipewyan. They do individual shows in these languages but for this 3-hour remote they took turns interviewing guests and doing the weather and news in their own languages.
It was my job to keep things rolling on the ground, making sure the hosts had interviews lined up and everyone knew who was up next. And it's all done on the spot--none of the guests are lined up ahead of time. The hosts simply survey the crowd and grab someone who a) can speak their language and b) has something interesting to say.
The beginning of the live show was quite rocky because the wireless mics weren't working well and, at one point the computer crashed, knocking us off the air for five minutes. Then we had to pull Harriet off the show because she was losing her voice. Fortunately, Alice, who had come along as an extra to gather tape, stepped in. Harriet had arrived at the site by canoe yesterday, along with 300 others attending the assemblies. She found the dusty air was affecting her voice. It certainly was dry and sandy--much like Folk on the Rocks. For three days now I feel as though sand has entered my every pore. I hate to say it, but we could do with some rain.
Back on the road tomorrow, which is a roller-coaster of a ride. Last time I drove along the Mackenzie it was all gravel; now the highway is paved, but frost has caused heaving, while big sections have gravel patches. There are signs for bison crossing; however, the only wildlife I saw was a wolf, standing on the rocks some distance from the road.
Dragon flies performed an aerobatic dance during the wedding vows between Kirsten Murphy and Jason Squires, two CBCers who were married on Hideaway Island. It was a warm sunny evening, with a good breeze that kept the biting bugs at bay. Rain fell later, whi
le we ate and drank inside the geodesic tent perched on top of this large island--a 40-minute ride if you take the big pontoon boat rented for the occasion. But the precipitation didn't last long, and soon we could mill outside and a fire was started (though there's a ban on fires in Yk right now) in a pit on the rocks.
compliment...
The smell of fish filled the air, and the lineups snaked along the long tables. However, it was well worth the wait. I sampled both the whitefish and lake trout--equally delicious.The afternoon show closed with these Inuit throat singers.

On the right is Seporah, wife of the morning show host.
The CBC carried six hours of live programming, while live music played from the main stage. We were set up in a tiny tent, wedged between a palm reader and an artist. It was a marathon for technician Phil Morck. At one point, he had to ask host Norbert Poitras to operate the board so he could take a pee, which Norbert, gleefully reported to listeners.
It was a day of sun and celebration.
Summer Solstice activities started today in the Sombe K'e Park near city hall. I wandered over after work, on the eve of the longest day. A Cree dancer from Alberta had just begun two traditional dances. This is the Hoop dance, which the emcee said women never performed in the early days.
Fiddles are as big in the NWT as they are in Nova Scotia. Julie Green is a novice, but she decided to play "Happy Birthday" on her violin for Darren Stewart. Darren is 29, and he leaves the CBC this fall to go to law school.
It was a cool night but here it is at 11 p.m. around the firepit, the sky still bright.
My first day of regional leaders' meetings, and I'm wondering if all CBC management sessions are this interesting. The challenges of programming in places like Iqaluit and northern Quebec, especially, are many and costly. The closest community to Montreal, which is the centre of Cree programming, is 9 hours away, making it difficult to get items in the field.
I revealed that Gordon Lightfoot had asked me to sleep with him when I interviewed him in Yellowknife for News of the North. I didn't give the outcome until the end of the day--gotta keep your audience wanting more...
My apologies to Marie for posting Stephen's photo and not hers--that's all I could find on the web. Marie and I attempted to catch up on almost 3 decades of life, from careers to families, over dinner at Le Frolic Bistro, where Stephen joined us later in the evening. Marie and I split a buffalo burger and Fresh Great Slave Lake Pickerel. I passed on the special of the day: PEI mussels cooked 7 different ways.

When I got to work this morning I had the good fortune to meet Mabel English before she headed back to Inuvik. She's the announcer/operator of Nantaii, a daily show broadcast out of Inuvik to the Gwich'in communities of the western Arctic and Old Crow, Yukon. Mabel is retiring from the CBC in November, after five years of hosting the show. She's 70 years old.
No, I don't have an office but I do have a big-ass desk with a TV, radio, computer, printer and window. The view isn't terrific but the light is lovely. I'm across from the radio people and the TV folks are around the corner. We're all on the same floor, but in separate sections.
The weather took a turn to the warm today--it was 28 degrees in Fort Good Hope! While the ice is gone from Frame Lake, I don't expect to be jumping into the water there anytime soon.
I was so absorbed in my thoughts as I walked along the trail this morning en route to work that I forgot to take the path that leads to the CBC. So, I had to backtrack a bit--hardly as problematical as missing an exit on the rotary. My only near miss was a fox that shot out in front of me, near the spot where I leave the trail. On the weekend, a black bear on a trail 40 km near Yk encountered a couple and their dog: the people were OK; the dog wasn't so lucky.